When I was a youth, I was into making medieval and Roman era armor. Chain mail from bailing wire, shields from trashcan lids, and Roman curiass ([I]lorica segmentata[/I]) from cardboard and duct tape. I considered pursuing it as an adult, but at the time, I was not equipped for the modern techniques of medieval armor reproduction, that would have made it profitable. So when I found a box of well-made forged spear points from India, I bought them.
They were calling to me. Several times I said to myself, “self, you don’t need these!.” I bought them anyway.
The wood shafts started at 1-1/4″ OD, and in order to get them straight, I reduced them to about 1-1/8″. On the short ones, I tapered the fronts from the 12″ mark and the ends from the 24″ mark. This leaves 12″ at 1″ diameter at a point forward of center, which should make throwing balance good.
On the long ones, which are more likely to be used as a hand-held weapon, I had to shorten the shafts from 7′ to 5’8″, or they wouldn’t fit in the lathe. I tapered those 18″ from the tail end and 12″ on the front.
One of the short shafts had enough warp to it that I had to run the tail taper even longer (arrow)
I did some research and found that there was a “mil spec” even 700 years ago, and riveting the heads was mandatory, so I modified some AK47 center support rivets for that.
I purchased the heads already brightly polished and it just didn’t look right, so I aged them with bleach. I sand blasted them and then went through a sequence of gently heat, paint with bleach, scrub, and repeat. Final rinse in hot water. Scoured with a green scratchy-pad to accentuate the pitting a little more. But it was too even. Parts don’t wear uniformly. And when scoured, the low spots would not polish.
I used up all my cold blue on those, so I used BC Alumablack on the long ones. This seemed to dissolve a little of the rust that I spent so much time putting there! It turned everything green, but it scoured away nicely,
leaving a slightly cleaner finish than the short ones.